Boxes and Bars
Warré designed his hives with lumber 2
mm thick. Standard American lumber,
nominally 1" is slightly thinner (actual
¾"). I mill my own boards from
reclaimed wood, cutting them 66%
thicker. The darker board at the left is the
standard thickness. Thicker material
means a stronger, longer-lasting hive box
with better insulating quality, an
important issue in our cold New England
winters. The corner joints in the original
Warré were simply overlapped and nailed
together for ease in construction. I use
the box joints that are the standard for
commercial Langstroth hives. These are
tighter, stronger and last better.
The picture on the right shows the top bars which the
Warré hive uses instead of four-sided frames. The
groove in the underside of each bar is filled with
beeswax. This guides the bees to build each comb
straight and parallel to the box for easy harvesting.
The round knob on the side opens a window so that
the hive can be inspected without removing the
top. This method is less stressful to the bees (and
to the beekeeper as well!), who keep their hive at
95 degrees in an atmosphere of pheremones and
propolis. It is truly a window on a fascinating
world!
On the left is the side of the hive box that holds the
inspection window. The plexiglass window is mounted flush
with the inside of the hive and cover is fitted with
weatherstripping for a tight seal. You don't need inspection
windows, but they make checking on the bees safe, simple
and fascinating.
This is my standard Warré top bar. The end notches fit the steps on the sides of the hive box.
The groove is filled with beeswax to get the bees started building straight comb across the
bottom of the bar.
The standard interlocking frame
parts sized to fit a Warré hive.
The parts are glued and nailed
together. Grooves on the top and
bottom bars hold optional
foundation.
Assembled frame with plastic
foundation.
The foundation is coated in
beeswax.
Few topics
produce an angry
swarm of
beekeepers
faster than which
is better, top bars
or frames?
There are
advantages to
both designs and
proponents of
each are quick to
point them out,
as well as listing
the drawbacks of
the other.
The points below
are just the
surface of the
topic.
Because foundation gives the bees a headstart, more
effort goes into honey production rather than drawing
comb. Foundation comb is less fragile and easier to
handle. It may be extracted with a centrifuge.
Top bars are simpler and cheaper. Proponents claim
that because they allow the bees to control the size
of the cells in the comb and because each comb
starts from scratch, the top bar system is more
natural and less likely to spread parasites and
diseases.
In the belief that frame comb is easier to extract and replace in order to inspect the hive for disease, some states require
removable frames in hives. It is possible in this case to use a frame without plastic foundation, allowing the bees to build their
comb naturally from the top bar of the frame. If you are unsure about whether frames are required in your state, contact your
Department of Agriculture or local beekeeper association.
Top Bars
The
Compromise
Frames
The Great Top Bar
Debate